When
Salome did her first performance, I had just arrived. She was wearing a
sequined bikini style costume with pink silk. She danced playfully all over
the room, at individual tables. I made a big show of giving her a dollar
bill, because I knew a lot of people don't know tipping dancers is customary.
When Omar
performed, he wore red harem pants, a long-sleeved red button down shirt
opened enough to show some of his chest and a matching red turban, along
with a vest and hip-belt covered with coins. He was a master of the zils,
which are finger cymbals. His movements were both graceful and strong,
and after impressing everyone with his zils, he made his way between the
tables.
Some children
had already already handed him some money, and he even had to stop playing
his zils in order to tuck it into his belt because none of them would
do it. But I offered him some money, and he called me up to dance with
him. I did but ducked out of it fairly quickly, not realizing how common
it was. By the end of the evening, I realized that it wasn't unusual to
invite customers to dance.
Then he
astounded us all by taking a scimitar and balancing it on top of his turban,
then doing low knee bends, sweeps and turns and all sorts of impressive
stunts.
Another
belly dancing instructor sat next to me, and when Omar had changed he
came out to say hello. I was surprised what a quiet, gentle voice he had,
because his dance personality is so mysterious and ultra-masculine. But
then again, it just proves that belly dancers are performers and many
of them are very different off-stage. One symbol of this is their stage
names, which they always use in public. I think it helps them to get into
character for the dance.
At a Moroccan
restaurant, the food is plentiful. The first course was a delicious soup
made with tomatoes, lentils and subtle spices. Next was an appetizer of
pita bread, which you use to dip into hummus, an eggplant paste and a
tray full of eggplants, carrots and chopped tomatoes and peppers, all
seasoned to perfection.
Following
that is a flaky pastry filled with crumbly meat and dusted with sugar.
It's meant to be eaten by the hands, as is everything else. At the beginning
of the meal, you're presented with a large towel, which you place in your
lap and use throughout the evening for wiping off your hands. I thought
it was funny how, even so, we westerners could not stop shaking hands
with each other!
The next
course, the main course, is a choice between many varieties of chicken
or meat. I chose the date chicken, which like everything I had there was
absolutely succulent. Then there's a shishkabob of either chicken or lamb.
Following that was a couscous dish. And finally, you finish off with a
desert of fresh fruit, baklava and the most delicious mint tea ever brewed.
So between
this and live performances by the belly dancers, it's an evening to remember.
For my instructor's
second performance, she wore another beaded bikini style costume, this
time with orange silk. She started out with a fast dance with a scarf,
and the children jumped up and ran out as if she were a sequined Pied
Piper. They all danced, trying to follow her lead. Surprisingly, some
of them picked up on her moves quickly. Then she leaned over to them and
said something confidentially to them and they returned to their seats.
She told me later that she'd asked them to sit down and would tell them
when it was a good time to come out again.
So Salome
launched into a slow, sinewy number, full of graceful movements. Belly
dancing is impressive when it's fast but slow movements and subtle undulations
are what truly impresses an audience.
Now that
people knew tips were acceptable, she made her round of the tables and
collected quite a few of them. She invited some customers to dance with
her. One Indian man did very well, even holding his hands in the proper
position above her head. He was either familiar with the dance style or
was a quick study.
When Omar
came back out, this time he wore a black no-sleeved shirt with matching
harem pants and turban, and a coin vest and hip scarf. He was definitely
"Omar" again. A cotillion of children hung around him who didn't
know how to react. Earlier in the evening, he'd been approached by a father
who asked him to tell his daughter that he had never hurt anyone with
his sword, since she'd been frightened. But these children had no fear
of him and danced wildly, trying to imitate his movements.
He pulled
several customers out of the crowd and brought them to center stage to
dance for a short while, including me again. Now that I knew it was common,
I felt more comfortable. It's amazing I could dance with all that food
in me.
I don't
think I'll eat much today. I'll wait until I'm hungry, which I expect
will take awhile.
Afterwards,
I hung around to talk to the belly dancers. I found out Omar has been
dancing for 20 years, which surprised me. He was inspired by seeing a
belly dancer perform and decided he would like to learn the traditional
male dance. So he found an instructor in New York City, dance capital
of the United States.
Last night,
I dreamt about sequins, coins and silken joy.
Moral:
Everything's better with sequins.
Copyright
2003 by Alyce Wilson
Musings
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